Change is inevitable even in Cuba, the most timeless of tropical paradises. But if you know where to look — and the Bohéme Woman most certainly does — the spirit of Old Havana is alive and well.

Find her holding court in a garden restaurant in Miramar, where the air is rich with spice, or salsa dancing at a timeless old hotel where boozy rum punch flows as freely as water. Follow her into the lounge, where the warm aroma of hand-rolled tobacco and the polished leather of overstuffed smoking chairs evoke all the sublime indulgence the night has to offer. Her journey to this sweet and sultry city has touched her senses and made her feel alive.